Coffee Origins: A Guide to Mexico

On the slopes of small, mountainous farms primarily run by indigenous producers, a hidden gem thrives—Mexican coffee.

Often overshadowed when people list renowned coffee origins, Mexico has much to offer: distinctive and fruity profiles, positive social and environmental impacts, and a profound coffee-producing heritage.

Coffee Growth Across Mexico:

This precious crop spans 14 states, with the majority of its 711,000 hectares situated in the southern regions. Introduced in the late 1700s, coffee cultivation in Mexico began on farms owned by Europeans, employing predominantly indigenous Mexican labourers. Over the years, a revolution and subsequent agrarian land reforms transformed the coffee landscape.

Present-day Mexican coffee farms differ significantly from the large plantations of the past. The most recent agricultural census identified 515,000 producers, with 85% being indigenous Mexicans and 95% cultivating fewer than three hectares. Despite being vulnerable, indigenous and smallholder producers receive support from the Mexican government and the National Institute of the Indigenous Peoples (INPI).

The Rise of Cooperatives and Organic Coffee:

Cooperatives play a pivotal role in Mexico's coffee industry, offering support to indigenous producers and fostering organic coffee production. Surprisingly, Mexico stands as one of the world's largest exporters of organic-certified coffee, with up to 8% of producers adopting organic practices. This shift can be traced back to 1973 when the Mexican government established the National Institute for Coffee (INMECAFE), recognizing coffee's potential for rural development. Although INMECAFE eventually closed due to changes in the global coffee market, cooperatives emerged, supporting indigenous producers and encouraging organic coffee cultivation.

In the 2022 season, Mexico exported 88,088 tons of coffee, solidifying its position as the ninth-largest coffee exporter globally.

71.3% of the supply was concentrated in: United States (52 thousand tons), Belgium (10 thousand tons) and Germany (5 thousand tons). Purchases from these nations showed an increase of 30.8%, 5.3% and 26.2% compared to the previous year.

Mexican Coffee Profiles:

Mexican coffees are known for their lighter body, mildness, and subtle flavours. Some, however, have surpassed the 90-point threshold, exemplifying their outstanding potential. For instance, the 2019 Cup of Excellence champion, Cruz José Arguello Miceli’s Gesha, scored an impressive 93.07 points, showcasing notes of jasmine, bergamot, lemongrass, and vanilla, with an overall sweet and buttery mouthfeel.

Cultivation Practices:

The majority of Mexico's coffee is shade-grown Arabica, with only 3–4% being Robusta. Approximately 35% of Mexican coffee is grown at altitudes of 900 meters above sea level (m.a.s.l.), providing favorable conditions for higher-quality coffees due to the country's relatively cooler climate. The predominant processing method is washed (90%), with the remaining 10% utilising methods such as honey and natural.

Exploring the Three Major Coffee Regions in Mexico

Veracruz: Nestled along the Gulf of Mexico, Veracruz is the first Mexican state to witness a coffee tree planted in its soil. With coffees grown at altitudes of 1,100–1,600 m.a.s.l., Veracruz offers exquisite flavors, including notes of light red fruits, blueberries, caramel, and panela. Technologically advanced, Veracruz boasts disease-resistant varieties and controlled sowing.

Chiapas: Located on the Guatemalan border, Chiapas produces 40% of Mexico's total coffee yield. Despite its status as the country's poorest state, Chiapas coffees stand out with notes of chocolate, bitters, nuts, citrus, and lemon, along with a round and lasting body. The state's best coffees grow between 1,300 and 1,700 m.a.s.l., with many indigenous Mexicans calling Chiapas home.

Oaxaca: Bordering the bottom of Veracruz and the top of Chiapas, Oaxaca's coffee farms thrive at altitudes between 900 and 1,650 m.a.s.l. Although less technologically advanced, Oaxacan coffees are distinctive and highly sought after, offering sweetness with caramel overtones, notes of yellow fruits, orange acidity, a creamy body, and floral hints. Traditional cultivation methods are prevalent, with many farms preserving heritage varieties.

Conclusion: A Diverse and Exciting Coffee Region

Mexico's coffee story is diverse and exciting, encompassing both modern farming techniques and a commitment to heritage and tradition. Whether in Veracruz, Chiapas, or Oaxaca, there is a wealth of flavours waiting to be explored. Mexico, with its rich coffee heritage, caters to those interested in history, flavours, and environmentally friendly coffee alike.

So, venture into the world of Mexican coffee, where each cup tells a story of resilience, tradition, and the pursuit of excellence.